We don't make a big deal about lumens because it's a somewhat flawed metric that can rarely tell the full story of how a light performs, and in many cases can be outright misleading.
First, your eye responds non-linearly to light, because your pupils with contract to protect your eyes as light exposure increases, which means a 4,000-lumen light doesn't actually "feel" twice as bright as a 2,000-lumen light. This is compounded by how the light is spread out on the trail or road you're riding on, where a light can "look brighter" by focusing all of those lumens into one focused spot, while actually making it harder for you to see the rest of your surroundings because your eye adjusts to the bright spot.
We're designing our lights to project a very specific beam pattern for the application you use them for, because we don't care about having the "brightest light evarrrr," we care about making it easiest for you to read the terrain ahead, and a bare lumen rating doesn't say anything about beam pattern. We calculate the intensity we want to see on the field in front of the bike and back-calculate how many lumens we need to achieve that, not the other way around, which yields a much more efficient use of light, and a more balanced field of view.
As for FL-1? Well, all our lights are actually tested to FL-1 standards currently. The reason we don't make a big deal out of that, is because the standard was literally written incandescent bulbs run off Alkaline batteries, before Lithium-Ion cells and LEDs were even commercially available for flashlights, so to achieve a 2,000-lumen FL-1 rating, you only had to maintain 2,000-lumens for the first TWO MINUTES of on-time, which means a light could drop it's output to 200 lumens minutes later and still be meeting FL-1 standards for runtime testing, which we think is crazy misleading, so instead of boasting about FL-1 ratings, we publish runtime charts that show exactly what kind of output you're getting in each mode over the life of the battery. No games, no tricks.